Travel Writing and Book Reviews

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This extract is from ‘Travel Tales from Exotic Places like Salford’

Situated in the Galata district of Istanbul, my final recommendation is Karakoy Gulluglu, a pastry shop that is probably the best place in the city to buy baklava. Situated just over the Golden Horn from Eminonu, the nearest tram stop is Karakoy. It can be easily visited after seeing the Istanbul Modern art gallery.

Customers can buy at least 20 different types of baklava either in kilograms or in portions. These are all available for perusal in display cabinets on one side of the shop. To order, the customer goes to the teller on the other side of the shop, who will take both the order and the money – in return he gives the customer a small itemised receipt. This receipt is then handed to one of the servers behind the display cabinets. Most people eat their baklava in the shop, so the server will offer the customer a plate, usually by picking up a plate, pointing to it, and saying “OK?” The desserts can be taken away in one of the boxes piled on top of the display cabinets. The server picks up his serving knife and goes to find the baklava ordered. If the customer orders a portion, then the server brings back five pieces of baklava. Please be aware of this before ordering.

There are tables outside with individual chairs. The tables inside are ones that people stand at and are usually the only ones available. The baklava is captivating – wonderful crisp pastry, walnut flavours, cinnamon, and gooey sugar-laden honey, attack the taste buds. It’s time to relax and to think about the taste of the real Istanbul that has just been served to the visitor who has dared to leave the familiar behind and seek out some of the lesser known places in this city that’s spread over two continents.

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