Travel Writing and Book Reviews

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I travelled here on the train from Amsterdam, changing at Deventer. Of all the places I visited in The Netherlands, this was the town I liked best. I know this makes me sound like Tigger in The House at Pooh Corner, but it was just such a lovely place to wander around. It helped that the sun was out and there were fluffy white clouds in the sky.

I think the reason is that I walked through the newer parts of town and then followed the path through the old town walls and on the other side was a different world. The old town is pedestrianised with few vehicles around, there appeared to be no supermarkets and the existing shops all looked characterful and charming as did the cafes. The medieval street plan is still intact with the emphasis placed on three lovely squares.

The tall clock tower called the Wijnhuis is a notable landmark. A Green Party rally and farmers’ market were blocking one street and so I walked straight on past more lovely and well-kept houses and shops until I saw the Walburgiskerk, a church with a light and open interior, that houses a library of illuminated manuscripts and incunabula. This was one of the first libraries in The Netherlands and the idea of the Protestants was that access to books would allow Catholic superstition to be disspelled. The books are still chained to the desks.

Opposite the church is the new town hall, a rare modern building in this part of Zutphen, as well as the Hampshire Hotel. I headed out of the town and walked along by a small lake with the Walburgiskerk reflected in the water. A defensive tower with a large arch allowed access back into the old town.

This is definitely a place to come back to and have a good look around the shops and relax at a cafe or two.

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