In once sleepy Kadıköy-Moda, new nightlife and culture hotspots happily coexist with the district’s established restaurants and cafes
Travel poem number 2 about Istanbul.
Returning from drinking a sage tea in a cafe near some tombs I get off the tram;
the cars screech to a halt at the red light as I dodge by the man selling dancing mutant zebras.
People are buying clothes from a pile on the pavement as a salesman calls out the prices.
The humidity is high.
A stallholder presses fresh orange juice and the restaurant is still open;
men are sitting on wooden chairs on the pavement chatting as the traffic zooms by on the flyover.
Cats miaow and hiss over a discarded kebap and a dolmus is waiting to travel to a distant suburb.
The tour operator still wants me to go to Georgia tomorrow.
It is nearly midnight in Aksaray in Istanbul
Architecture and shopping go hand in hand at these characterful arcades, which also offer a glimpse into the city’s rich past
The Hagia Sophia, Galatasary FC, Bosphorus views … there are so many ways of exploring Istanbul’s riches while keeping your lira on a leash
History often comes served with a contemporary twist in Istanbul hotels. Choose from a boutique hotel that once housed a sultan’s tailor, a night in the city’s former US embassy, a cool hostel with its own pizzeria and more
The Fener-Balat quarter, once the little Greece of Istanbul, is now one of the city’s trendy design districts and regaining the international feel of its past
Over the past year, 32-year-old architect Yener Torun has been seeking out and photographing minimalist buildings around Istanbul. ‘Unfortunately there aren’t a lot of buildings like these in Turkey,’ he says. ‘So I spend most of my spare time finding them – it’s like a treasure hunt.’ He posts his pictures on Instagram, where he has attracted more than 36,000 followers. ‘Just think of the Istanbul photos you have seen before: grand mosques, old streets, seagulls over the Bosphorus. I show a completely different side. Even long-term residents can’t believe these pics were taken in the city they live in’