Navigating Norfolk’s hidden creeks and salt marshes – in a 1950s whelk boat

With an ex-Marine at the helm, a new sailing adventure in north Norfolk offers the chance to enter a watery wilderness and get up close to seals and birdlife

James Turrell at Houghton Hall: a psychedelic legal high in the English countryside

The artist installation at the grand Norfolk country house is a mind-bending array of colour and light – like a beautifully silent music festival