In once sleepy Kadıköy-Moda, new nightlife and culture hotspots happily coexist with the district’s established restaurants and cafes
Travel poem number 2 about Istanbul.
Returning from drinking a sage tea in a cafe near some tombs I get off the tram;
the cars screech to a halt at the red light as I dodge by the man selling dancing mutant zebras.
People are buying clothes from a pile on the pavement as a salesman calls out the prices.
The humidity is high.
A stallholder presses fresh orange juice and the restaurant is still open;
men are sitting on wooden chairs on the pavement chatting as the traffic zooms by on the flyover.
Cats miaow and hiss over a discarded kebap and a dolmus is waiting to travel to a distant suburb.
The tour operator still wants me to go to Georgia tomorrow.
It is nearly midnight in Aksaray in Istanbul
Once a church – and a hospital and a museum – it is now a mosque and also one of Turkey’s best-preserved buildings of the late Byzantine era. Admission is free and there is much here for visitors of all faiths
The Hagia Sophia, Galatasary FC, Bosphorus views … there are so many ways of exploring Istanbul’s riches while keeping your lira on a leash
Sweet and doughy, topped – or even stuffed – with meat and cheese, the pide is a traditional snack from Turkey’s Black Sea coast
History often comes served with a contemporary twist in Istanbul hotels. Choose from a boutique hotel that once housed a sultan’s tailor, a night in the city’s former US embassy, a cool hostel with its own pizzeria and more
A sliver of mountain and beach jutting in to the Aegean offers an oasis of unspoilt tranquillity amid the lively resorts of south-west Turkey