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The cafe called Zlatna Ribica is on a small side street called Kaptol just off the main Marsala Tita avenue. Nothing can really prepare the visitor for the inside of this amazing cafe, which looks at first glance like a bric-a-brac shop that has branched out into catering. There is a large mirror on one wall of the outer area of the cafe, which has five smaller tables, with an inner area that has four larger tables. On the walls there are American medals, posters for French films, Spanish fans, saxophones and adverts for Nelson Mandela exhibitions. Lamps hang from the ceiling and are attached to various other surfaces; no two of the lampshades are the same. The music varies from jazz to disco versions of “Je ne regrette rien”. People are allowed to smoke inside so try and sit close to the door. Now, I probably won’t write this next recommendation again in my whole life – you must go to the toilet here and take your camera with you – as this two-part bathroom contains one smaller room for the toilet and another for the washbasin, which has a variety of toiletries on a shelf above it, that would shame some chemist’s shops (see accompanying image). There are toothbrushes, toothpastes, tubs of cream, hand cleaners, razors, and soaps. There are many multi-coloured towels. When you are back in the cafe, don’t forget to order a drink or two as it’s one of those rare places where it’s OK to discuss the variety of paraphernalia on the walls with the people around you.