The Macedonians built a fountain and upset the Greeks.
On the road to Lake Ohrid villages fly Albanian flags instead of Macedonian.
Kosovan taxi drivers believe fundamentalists are being sponsored in their country by former foes.
In Sarajevo, the place the First World War started is not easy to find, but evidence of more recent atrocities is.
Memories are long in The Balkans, contrasts and contradictions are all around. History is always in your face, reminding you nothing stays the same for long in this most fascinating corner of Europe.
Travels through History: The Balkans available here in Kindle format
Dubrovnik in Croatia is so popular a one-way system is now in operation on the city walls. Kotor in Montenegro is quieter and has a more beautiful setting.