Quadra Island

Quadra Island, Cortes Island, Read Island, Maurelle Island, Sonora Island, and East and West Thurlow Island, are between Campbell River and the mainland of British Columbia. They are known as the Discovery Islands. Because of their proximity neighbouring Stuart Island, East and West Redonda Island, and the Rendezvous Islands are often included as part of the Discovery Islands group. I had time to visit Quadra Island for only a few hours.

Quadra is the largest and most populated of the Discovery Islands and named after Don Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, the 18th Century Spanish naval officer. Quadra Island has three major communities: Quathiaski Cove, known as Q Cove, the hub of Quadra and the most populated settlement; Heriot Bay, the gateway to the other Discovery Islands, and Cape Mudge (Yuculta), home to the We Wai Kai band of the Kwakwak’awakw (Kwagiulth) First Nation.

The ferry heads to Quadra Island from Campbell River across Discovery Passage. This channel links Johnstone Strait to the north, with the Strait of Georgia to the south. Discovery Passage meets Johnstone Strait near Rock Bay Marine Park on Vancouver Island and the west coast of Sonora Island. Quadra Island forms the eastern shore of Discovery Passage to the southern end of the passage at Campbell River, where it connects with Georgia Strait.

In 1847, Captain Henry Kellett of the Royal Navy named Discovery Passage after Captain George Vancouver’s ship, HMS Discovery, which sailed through this passage during his circumnavigation of Vancouver Island in 1792. HMS Discovery was also part of James Cook’s third expedition to the Pacific Ocean (1776 to 1780).

Quathiaski Cove is not visible from Campbell River. The ferry heads straight across Discovery Passage and then around a small headland before arriving at Q Cove. The journey takes around 15 minutes. Foot passengers left first, as usual. Quathiaski Cove Road heads straight up the hill and then turns to the left at a junction. The road that continues straight ahead, Green Road, is the one I took towards Yaculta. The leaves were becoming autumnal as the road followed the coast for a few hundred yards, affording views towards Campbell River and the snow-capped peaks of Strathcona Provincial Park behind. I went to Yaculta to see the totem poles at the Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre and the nearby United Church, a white-walled structure that stood out against the dark-green forest on the hill behind.

There was no one around apart from one person walking a dog. I felt conspicuous as a result, especially as the barriers on the road coming into the village advertised the road was only for First Nations use. I looked around at the houses and the ‘Cat Crossing’ sign by the roadside. A ceremonial canoe was lying on the ground under a wooden shelter. Everything seemed peaceful. I headed back to the centre of Quathiaski Cove where the independent bookshop, Book Bonanza, was open on a public holiday. I had a good look around and reduced the number of books I wanted to buy from eight to four. It is important to support local businesses such as this one.

Bullrushes were flourishing in the little stream running close to a metallic sculpture. Another surprise were the eight large, green recycling bins in a semicircle at the edge of the main area. I presumed that all households would bring their paper, plastic, and glass to this one place as part of their shopping trip to the grocery store.